X Axis Binding Issues


X Axis binding issues are because of either warped linear rods or the brackets housing them. Follow this quick and dirty guide to help fix the problem.

As previously mention warped rails or their housings tend to be cause of the binding on the X Axis on 3D printers or even some CNC machines. I recently discovered after purchasing replacement Z axis parts from a Anet recommended seller, that the mould was adding to the binding problem. So much so the bottom of the dual rail is super stiff to insert and remove. Unfortunately I ordered some time ago and have only just got around to fitting the parts. So getting a replacement is highly unlikely.

While I could strip down most of the AM8 and shave the rod insert holes again. While it might help to solve the X Axis Binding. However I the previous enlargement the holes and the binding still existed. Moreover it would be a long job and the rods are still likely to have some warp on them. Furthermore a some point in the near future the Z and X axis on the AM8 are going to be getting a makeover. Perhaps swapping out the existing rod setup in favour of some v-slot pulley wheels, or even a linear glide rail system.

Moreover I didn’t want to be spending more money nor time stripping everything down again. So back to the quick and dirty fix.

Pre-Testing

In order to test if the X Axis binding issues fix will work for you. Grab the dual X Axis rods at the furthest point or the Max-X position, and squeeze together.

A point of note my X Axis rods needed a fair amount of pressure. While holding the rods move the extruder or hot end fitting back and forth along the X Axis. If the movement is freed up and the X Axis binding is reduced or fixed completely. Then the quick and dirty method would work.

The Fix

What can make that much of a difference to the X Axis binding issues and not hamper the X Axis movement ? 200mm Cable Ties is the answer. While I tried various cable ties. However they were too weak and couldn’t get enough tension to effectively correct the binding issues. Until I found some Nylon cable ties from Beshine on Amazon UK.

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Despite using the first cable tie to get a good hold on the tension, the fix works best with two cable ties. Why two ? While using the 2nd cable tie to increase the tension further, upon removing the first cable tie the binding would come back. Admittedly the binding was improved, however with two cable ties there is a dramatical difference.

Ensure 1st cable tie is as close to the X Axis End as possible

In-order to get a good tension on the X Axis rails with the cable ties. Grip the X Axis rods together and use a pair of pliers to pull the cable tie taught. Ensure the fastener or locking piece is sat on top of the rails. Furthermore it sometimes helps to set the tension as mentioned above, then re-squeeze the rods and pull the cable tie tighter still.

Ensure 2nd cable tie is as close to the first cable tie as possible

With the first cable tie in place, shift it along so that it sits as close as possible to the end of the X Axis. Now doe the same with the second cable tie but with the fastener on the underside of the bottom rod. While tightening, try and get the 2nd cable tie as close as possible to the first one.

Final Steps

Ignore the loose nut, and upside backlash its part of a another experiment.

Interestingly, I found that by simply swivelling the position of the cable tie fastener, it would increase and decrease the tension slightly. Allowing for a slight refinement to the applied tension. Experiment and adjust to suit your 3D printer.

One final note, don’t forget to check your X-Axis dimensional accuracy after fixing the binding. Furthermore as the height will have changed slightly on the X Axis rods, bed levelling be it manual or automatic will need re-doing.

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500 Nylon Heavy Duty Cable Ties

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